Updated: Oct 26
If you arrive in your vehicle, there will be an entrance fee into the park, however, if you arrive by sea on your kayak it's usually free.
To arrive here by kayak you must keep a keen look out for the channel markers that indicate the way.
From the north you will need to paddle through a narrow channel in Garden Sound through the mangroves that will lead you into the Largo Sound (it is also from here where there is a canal to cross Key Largo Island into the Black water Sound). The picture below is from the north channel
From the south there's also another channel marker for the South Sound Creek that also leads into Largo Sound. It can be tough to spot if you're distracted. The best way to find it is to keep an eye for any vessels coming and going into it.
There is no food at the local kiosk anymore as they were beaten very badly by Hurricane Irma in 2017. Though the tour operators to the outer coral reefs still operate from the park. There are plenty of food establishments along US-1.
The campsite at Pennekammp is geared for RVs, though you can pitch your tent in one of the spots. It's a bit expensive (like $40), but at least you have a very good shower and bathroom.
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