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February 2nd and 3rd - Days 44 and 45

Around Florida by Kayak

February 2 - Day 44
I left Flamingo Point just before 8 am. There wasn’t any point starting earlier as the first high tide was just after 9am. Just East of Flamingo Point is a vast shallow section of the Florida Bay that sits partly exposed at low tide and becomes impassable even for a kayak. Getting stuck here means waiting around for hours until the tide lifts the boat. Jumping out and walking isn’t really an option; the muck is soft, watery and easy to sink below the knees. Fortunately for me, there was just enough water to pass through, though in some places less than half a palm deep. The moon is in between full and new, so the high tide wasn’t all that high. I pulled up the rudder and let the sail carry me through the shallows for about 8 miles making steering adjustments with the paddle until I reached deeper water. 

I traveled as far East as Nest Key just West of Key Largo. I’ve camped here twice before, but I found that the island looks a lot different from the last time. There is considerably less beach to camp and the wooden dock was mangled and uneven with missing planks and partly collapsed in the water. The two blue pot-potties toilets which I think are a famous landmark of the island and could be seen from almost a mile away were gone. Since I’ve never used them it didn’t matter me, but their absence made me think I was in the wrong place. 

There was a boat moored on the broken dock. They were two fishermen trying their luck; when one of them saw me he waved and said to not camp on the opposite end of the island. “Two days ago I saw a crocodile there, and it was not at all a small one,” he said. After it got dark, I shone my flashlight over the marsh in the middle of the island to look for any pairs of eyes reflecting back at me. Thank goodness I saw none.

February 3 - Day 45
Key Largo was a short 10-mile paddle. It was strange to be done before midday; I felt as though I hadn’t done anything. I am waiting for the Southeast wind forecast for tomorrow to carry me all the way to Miami. Everything from here on north is familiar territory to me. I’ve done this stretch 3 times before but in the opposite direction.

I spent all day eating and walking. The first thing I ate was a large lobster burger. Second was going to be gourmet ice cream at a gelato store I had marked on the map back when I was still in Chokoloskee. I walked up to the place dreaming about whether I could fit 4 scoops in one cone, and if I would have room for their chocolate covered waffles and key lime pie as well. To my dismay I found the front door locked. They close on Monday’s. The next place to get ice cream was the Publix supermarket two and a half miles south, and nothing nearly so good.

With what I have left, I won’t have to buy any more food to reach home. I’m done with the canned sardines. I think every time I see them it will bring me back to a place along the journey; maybe a breakfast in the Suwannee River, a dinner looking at the waves in the Atlantic Ocean, or a sunset in the Gulf of Mexico while picking out the fish spines with a spork. I must have eaten some 30 cans of the Louisiana hot sauce variety.

February 4th - Day 46

Around Florida by Kayak

A day with a lot of lasts on this journey. Last long paddle day, last time I launch from a boat ramp, last night I sleep in the tent (and good timing; one of the poles snapped and I’ve had to patch it with duct tape),  last use of the bug spray can, last cliff bars and sardines I’ll be eating for a while, and last Nutella breakfast. There was, however, one first. As I rounded the last protruding arm of mangrove trees on the north of Eliot Key, I caught sight of the skyscrapers in Miami Beach and Downtown Miami. For about a minute I stopped paddling, looked at those familiar buildings shapes which I know as well as the faces of old friends, and thought how in all the days of the journey, no matter how far was the next headland I could see into the horizon I knew I would always pass it eventually. Now however, that won’t be so, there is where it ends.

I’m the only person camping in Boca Chita tonight. There were a few boats on the harbor when I arrived, a group of French Canadians, who were getting frustrated with the mosquitoes and a few other day trippers from Black Point Marina, but by half an hour after sunset everyone had left. Everything here is so quiet; all I hear is the churning of the water being pulled from out of Biscayne Bay by the falling tide, a few crickets and the occasional bird quack. The human sounds of Miami will feel so strange when I’m back.

February 5th - Last Day!

It could hardly have been a better day to cover the last miles home. With the strong wind from the Southeast I decided to make a little victory lap and extend things a little rather than head straight to Key Biscayne. I took a 7.5-mile detour to the Fowey Lighthouse and Rocks that sit on the edge of the continental shelf on the Florida Straits. The swells there were quite large, and I dared not take the hands off the paddle for any photos. From there to Key Biscayne was straight downwind and I surfed from one wave to the next.

Arriving on the beach I met some of my elderly neighbors who asked where I had been all this time. My car had been collecting dust, the mailbox was overflowing, and they were worried I had fallen off the face of the Earth, or maybe even was the lost kayaker from the news. I had met them the day I left and said I was going around Florida, so they must have forgotten.

I found my house the same way I left it. The folks I rented over Christmas and New Year’s took good care of it, however, they didn’t eat any of the chocolate ice cream and fudge biscuits I specifically had left for them. I celebrated my lone arrival home by eating a full quart of ice cream. Prior to starting I had weighed myself to see how much I might lose. The verdict, when I left, I was 194 lbs, now I’m 169 lbs (although probably 171 lbs after all the ice cream). 

While the journey was happening, it felt as if it would go on forever. For Almost two months, the sea, the kayak, and the paddle were an extension of my being. But experiences are transitory, and like all things  in life that have come before, this journey too has now come to pass.  

Over all these were the main stats:
Total Distance: 1,174.5 miles
Total days: 47
Days paddled: 41
Av distance paddled per day: 28.63 miles
Most miles in a day: 53
Average speed: 4.25mph
Max speed: 10.1mph
Need to plan the next journey... But the question is, where to now?

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